Room additions, second stories, and primary suites, sized to what your lot allows and built to match the house.
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We walk the lot, check the foundation and roof, and tell you what fits. No charge, no obligation.
Form fields: Full name, Email, Phone, Project address, Scope (Home addition, Room addition, Second-story addition, Primary suite addition, Bump-out, Not sure yet), Preferred date, Tell us about your house and lot. Submit button: Book My Free Visit (red #E12228).
We pace off your lot and check what floor area, setbacks, and height allow. Book a slot.
Survey, design and permits, engineering, and the build on one contract. See how it works.
Serving: Sherman Oaks, Studio City, Encino, Tarzana, Woodland Hills, Valley Village, and Van Nuys.
Los Angeles Home Remodelers builds home additions in Los Angeles for families who’ve run out of house but not out of lot. We check what your zoning allows, then design, engineer, permit, and build the new square footage under one contract.
Every project starts with the lot, not the floor plan. We look up your parcel on ZIMAS and measure the setbacks before anyone sketches a bedroom.
The right answer might be out, up, or a few feet of bump-out. A Valley ranch with a deep yard usually builds out. A Westside bungalow on a narrow lot often goes up, if the foundation can carry it.
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Each page covers one kind of addition: what it involves, which Los Angeles houses it suits, and what to ask before you sign. Start with the one your lot fits.
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A bedroom, family room, or bump-out off the back or side, tied into your roof and walls.
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Go up instead of out, with new footings, shear walls, and a stair planned from day one.
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A bedroom, bathroom, and walk-in closet of your own, on the ground floor or upstairs.
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Look up the CSLB license first. Then ask who checks zoning. A good addition contractor runs the floor-area numbers before design, not after plan check sends the drawings back.
Compare bids line by line. A low bid often leaves out the engineering, the new footings, or the roof tie-in, then bills them later as change orders. Every line below gets priced in your contract up front.
Your project manager runs the survey, design, permits, and build, and answers your calls. You never chase an architect, an engineer, and a framer for three different answers.
Your contract lists the footings, framing, roof, and finishes as line items. If a change comes up after we open a wall, you see the price and sign before we build it.
A sealed-off work zone, floor protection inside, and a locked site each night. We tell you ahead of time which days the new wall opens into the house.
Pick the addition that fits your lot and your life, not the one a neighbor built. On the first visit, we’ll tell you which of these your zoning and foundation support.
A bedroom, family room, or bath built off the back or side of the house on new footings. You stay on one level, and you can usually live at home during the build. See Room Additions.
Go up when the yard is small or the setbacks leave no room. The foundation needs a check first, and most families move out for part of the job. See Second-Story Additions.
A bedroom, private bath, and walk-in closet of your own, on the ground floor or upstairs, away from the kids' rooms. It suits owners staying put and parents moving in. See Primary Suite Additions.
A bump-out pushes one wall a few feet into the yard to widen a bathroom, a closet, or a dining area. Some cantilever off the floor framing and need less foundation work [verify per design]. It still counts toward your floor area.
An addition becomes part of your house, with no separate entry, meter, or rental in mind. If you want a unit to rent or a separate home for a parent, see ADU Builders.
An addition should look like it came with the house. We copy your home’s roof pitch, siding, and window pattern, style by style.
Low-pitch hip or gable roofs, long eaves, and stucco. A rear addition keeps the single-story line. A second story needs careful massing so it doesn’t look stacked on.
Wide eaves, exposed rafter tails, tapered porch posts, and wood siding. We match the siding reveal and window trim, and in HPOZ areas the design goes to historic review first [verify].
Clay tile roofs, smooth plaster, and arched openings. Matching the tile and plaster texture is most of the work, and a rear addition hides best behind the original shape.
Flat or low-slope roofs, post-and-beam framing, and walls of glass. The addition carries the beam lines through, which often means extra engineering for long spans.
Board-and-batten siding, steep gables, and black-framed windows. It’s the easiest look for a second story, because a taller roof reads as part of the design.
Whether you build out or up, or sell and move, comes down to your yard, your foundation, and how long you can live around a job site. Here’s how the options compare.
Option
Best for
Watch out for
Yard impact
Bump-out
One tight room that needs a few feet
Adds little space; still counts toward floor area
Almost none
Rear or side room addition
Deep yards with room inside the setbacks
Setbacks and the tie-in to an older roofline
Uses part of the yard
Second-story addition
Small yards and flat Valley or Westside lots
Foundation upgrades; moving out for part of the build
Keeps the yard
Primary suite addition
Owners staying put for the long haul
Plumbing and sewer runs for the new bath
Depends on out or up
Moving to a bigger house
Owners who need a new area or school
Sale fees, a new loan rate, and a new tax basis [verify]
A new yard on a new block
Your residential floor area (RFA) limit caps the total size of the house. We check it against ZIMAS and the survey, so the design stays inside what LA City Planning allows [verify].
We dig a test hole at the footing to see its depth and condition. That answer decides whether a second story needs new footings or the house can carry it as is.
Most families stay home through a rear addition. A second story often means moving out for [3–6] months once the roof comes off.
Paying for drawings before a zoning check is a costly addition mistake. Plans that break setback or height rules get sent back at plan check.
The era and lot of your house decide whether you build out, build up, or stay small. Here’s what we see most, by type.
1940s–60s
Flat lots, slab or short crawlspace foundations, and big backyards in Sherman Oaks and Northridge. These houses take a rear addition easily. A second story usually needs new footings first.
1920s–30s
Raised foundations and original rooflines worth keeping. In HPOZ districts, the design goes through historic review, so rear additions that stay out of street view tend to move faster [verify].
Any era
Steep lots fall under the Baseline Hillside Ordinance, with tighter floor-area and height rules [verify]. Additions often step down the slope on caissons or grade beams.
1980s–2000s
These homes already use much of their allowed floor area. A bump-out or a room over the garage often fits where a full addition won’t, so we run the numbers first.
Any era
Corner lots have two street sides, so front and side setbacks shrink the buildable area. The yard may look big, but the envelope you can build in is often narrower [verify].
Yes. In the City of Los Angeles, an addition that adds square footage needs LADBS plan check and a building permit, and the design has to meet LA City Planning zoning rules first. We prepare the drawings, file them, and book every inspection.
The Baseline Mansionization Ordinance sets a residential floor area limit from your lot size and zone [verify]. Your existing house counts against it, so the addition gets whatever room is left.
New square footage has to meet California’s Title 24 energy code for insulation, windows, and lighting [verify current edition]. We run the energy calculations with the plans.
A new bedroom needs a window big enough to climb out of, and adding on usually triggers smoke and carbon monoxide alarms through the house [verify code section]. We draw both in from the start.
The lowest addition bid in Los Angeles usually leaves out the engineering, the footings, or the roof tie-in. We price the real scope during design, so your change-order column stays close to empty.
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Measured, not guessed
On our workmanship
No day labor on site
An addition runs in six phases. Design and permits take the longest, and the order below holds even when the dates shift.
Phase 01
We pull your parcel on ZIMAS, measure the lot, and dig a test hole at the footing. You learn what fits before design starts.
Phase 02
We draw the layout with you, then the structural engineer and energy consultant finish the set. Expect about [6–10] weeks, depending on your changes.
Phase 03
LADBS reviews the plans and often sends corrections for us to answer. Plan check for an addition usually runs [2–4] months [verify]. Nothing gets built before the permit.
Phase 04
Crews dig the new footings, and the city inspects the trenches and steel before concrete goes in. This phase takes about [2–4] weeks.
Phase 05
Walls, floor, and roof go up, then the new roof ties into the old one. Rough plumbing, electrical, and HVAC follow, each with its own inspection.
Phase 06
Drywall, stucco, windows, and floors go in to match the house. Final inspection closes the permit, and the room is yours.
One visit gets you a read on your floor area, setbacks, and foundation, plus an honest answer on out, up, or neither. You don’t pay for it, and you don’t sign anything.
or send the form and we’ll call you back.
We walk the lot, check the foundation and roof, and tell you what fits. No charge, no obligation.
Form fields: Full name, Email, Phone, Project address, Scope (Home addition, Room addition, Second-story addition, Primary suite addition, Bump-out, Not sure yet), Preferred date, Tell us about your house and lot. Submit button: Book My Free Visit (red #E12228).
We build home additions from Porter Ranch to Culver City: flat Valley lots, Eastside hillsides, and Westside streets like Mar Vista. If your area isn’t listed, call and ask.
Tap a question to open the answer. The first one starts open.
Your cost depends mostly on size, foundation work, and whether you build out or up, so we price it only after a site visit. The biggest drivers are new footings, second-story framing, plumbing for a new bath, engineering, and permit fees. Your estimate breaks out each one as a line item.
Often, but run both numbers. Moving in LA brings sale fees, moving costs, a new loan rate, and a new property-tax basis [verify]. An addition keeps your school, your block, and your current loan, and it can add resale value. Compare the addition’s full scope, engineering and permits included, against those costs.
Yes. Any addition that adds floor space needs a building permit from LADBS in the city, or from the local building office in cities like Burbank and Glendale. Skipping it risks tear-out orders and trouble when you sell. We file the plans, answer corrections, and book every inspection.
Most additions take about [9–15] months from first visit to final inspection. Design and engineering run about [2–3] months, plan check about [2–4] months, and construction about [4–8] months [verify]. A second story sits at the long end. You get a phase-by-phase schedule before you sign.
Your residential floor area limit, setbacks, and height rules set the ceiling [verify]. The limit comes from your lot size and zone, and your existing house counts against it. We check your parcel on ZIMAS and measure the lot on the first visit, so you know the number before design.
Build out if you have yard and setback room to spare. Build up if you don’t, and if your foundation can carry a second floor. Going out usually lets you stay home during the build. Going up keeps the yard but often means moving out for part of it.
An addition becomes part of your house and adds rooms you use every day. An ADU is a separate unit with its own entrance and living space, and you can often rent it. The size rules and permit paths differ [verify]. If you want rental income or a separate home for a parent, see ADU Builders.
Usually, yes. The new square footage typically gets assessed when it’s finished, while the rest of your home keeps its current basis under Prop 13 [verify]. We’re builders, not tax advisors. Ask the LA County Assessor how an addition affects your bill before you finalize the design.
Usually, for a room or rear addition. We build behind a sealed-off wall and open into the house near the end. A second story is different: once the roof comes off, most families move out for about [3–6] months. We tell you which weeks before the build starts.
Every line of scope, including survey, design, engineering, Title 24 calculations, permit fees, footings, framing, roof tie-in, systems, finishes, and cleanup. It also shows a payment schedule tied to milestones. If a line isn’t on the estimate, it isn’t in the price.
Cabinets, countertops, islands, and permits under one contract.
Every room, system, and permit on one schedule, with one team.
Detached ADUs, garage conversions, and JADUs, designed and built.
CONSULTATIONS OPEN FOR [MONTH] AND [MONTH]
The right addition gives your family room to grow without giving up the block you love. Los Angeles Home Remodelers checks the lot, designs the space, and builds it under one contract. Book your free consultation today.
[Mon–Sat, 8am–6pm]
We walk the lot, check the foundation and roof, and tell you what fits. No charge, no obligation.
Form fields: Full name, Email, Phone, Project address, Scope (Home addition, Room addition, Second-story addition, Primary suite addition, Bump-out, Not sure yet), Preferred date, Tell us about your house and lot. Submit button: Book My Free Visit (red #E12228).