Home › Home Additions › Second-Story Additions
A new second floor on engineered footings and shear walls, with the stair, roof, and move-out planned before demo.
CSLB Lic. [#000000] | Bonded & Insured | Written Workmanship Warranty
We check the lot, the foundation, and the height limit, then tell you if going up fits. No charge, no obligation.
Form fields: Full name, Email, Phone, Project address, Scope (Second-story addition, Home addition, Room addition, Primary suite addition, Bump-out, Not sure yet), Preferred date, Tell us about your house and lot. Submit button: Book My Free Visit (red #E12228).
We read your lot on ZIMAS and walk the house, then tell you how high you can go. Book a slot.
A temporary roof plan comes before any shingles come off. See how it works.
Serving: Burbank, Glendale, Eagle Rock, Mar Vista, Westchester, Torrance, and Sherman Oaks.
Los Angeles Home Remodelers designs and builds the second story addition Los Angeles families ask about when the yard’s too small to build out. You get new bedrooms upstairs, and we handle the survey, engineering, permits, framing, and roof under one contract.
Every second story starts below grade. We dig test holes at your existing foundation first, because what’s down there decides the design.
Most LA houses weren’t built to carry a second floor. A 1950s ranch house often sits on shallow footings, so a structural engineer sizes new footings and shear walls before anyone picks a window.
Certified Service
CSLB Lic. [#000000]
Going up isn’t the only answer. If your lot has room behind the house, or you only need one suite, these pages cover the other additions we build.
Not sure where to start?
[YOUR PHONE]
More square footage out or up, designed to match the house and permitted under one contract.
SEE THE SERVICE →
A bedroom, family room, or bump-out off the back or side, tied into your roof and walls.
SEE THE SERVICE →
A bedroom, bathroom, and walk-in closet of your own, on the ground floor or upstairs.
SEE THE SERVICE →
Ask who the structural engineer is and when they’ll see your foundation. A builder who prices a second story before anyone digs a test hole is guessing, and you’ll pay for the guess later.
Compare what each bid carries. Low second-story bids often leave out the new footings, the hold-downs, or the temporary roof, then add them as changes once the roof’s off. We price every line below up front.
Your project manager runs the survey, design, permits, and build, and answers your calls. You never chase an architect, an engineer, and a framer for three different answers.
Opening a roof and a foundation turns up surprises. Each one gets photographed, priced, and signed by you before a crew touches it, so the final invoice matches what you approved.
A sealed-off work zone, floor protection inside, and a locked site each night. We tell you ahead of time which days the new wall opens into the house.
Five decisions set whether your house can go up and what it takes. Settle the foundation and the height first, because they decide how big the upper floor can be and where it sits.
We dig test holes beside your existing foundation to measure footing depth and width. If they're too shallow for a second floor, the structural engineer adds new footings or grade beams, which are concrete beams poured under the walls that take the new load.
Shear walls are wall sections sheathed in plywood that keep the house from racking in an earthquake. Hold-downs are steel straps that bolt each end to the footing, so an upper floor can't lift off.
Stairs take a slice of your ground floor, usually a bedroom closet or part of the hall. We place them in the first sketch so the upper hallway lines up and nobody loses the room you use most.
Roof removal leaves the house open for [1–3] weeks while the new floor gets framed. We watch the forecast, keep a temporary roof of framed tarps ready, and time demo for a dry stretch, so rain stays out of your ceilings and walls.
Your lot's height limit and encroachment plane set how tall the upper floor can be and how far it steps back from the side lot lines. We check both in ZIMAS before design [verify].
Pick the form that fits your floor-area limit and your budget. A full second floor isn’t always the best use of the room you’re allowed.
A new floor over the whole footprint. It gives you the most bedrooms, and it almost always means new footings, new shear walls, and moving out.
An upper floor over one wing, often the bedroom side. It carries less load, keeps part of the old roof, and may leave more of your ground floor untouched.
A pop-top addition raises the roof to add one room, a loft, or taller ceilings. It suits a single bedroom upstairs when your floor-area limit is tight.
A room built over an attached garage. The garage slab and footings still need checking, and the room needs its own insulation over the cold space.
The upper walls sit back from the lower ones. That keeps you inside the encroachment plane and gives neighbors more light and privacy.
Each form changes how much of the house gets opened and whether you’ll live elsewhere for the build. Pick the form first, then the floor plan, because the form sets the structure.
Addition type
Best for
Watch out for
Move out?
Full second story
Three or more new bedrooms
New footings and full roof removal
Usually, for [4–8] months
Partial second story
A suite plus a bedroom upstairs
Old and new roofs must tie in cleanly
Often, for part of it
Pop-top (raise roof)
One room or a loft upstairs
Tight stair room on small plans
Sometimes, for [2–6] weeks
Over-garage addition
Stucco homes with a garage
Garage slab may need footings
Rarely; most stay home
Build out instead
Lots with yard and setback room
Gives up yard; see Room Additions
No, most stay home
Build up when your yard is small, you want to keep it, or setbacks leave no room to the side or rear. It costs the most per room because of the structural work.
Build out when the lot has open yard and the foundation is shallow. You’ll usually stay home through the work. Room Additions covers this path in detail.
A small rear addition on the ground floor can hold the new stair, so the upstairs gains bedrooms and your downstairs keeps every room it has now.
Living in the house while the roof’s off means dust, no ceiling in some rooms, and power cut for days. Plan the move-out before demo, not during it.
Your home’s era and street decide what the foundation, the zoning, and the roof bring to the job. Here’s what we usually find.
1940s–60s
Ranches in Woodland Hills, Northridge, and Reseda often sit on thin slabs with shallow perimeter footings. Adding a second story to a ranch house here almost always means new footings along the walls that carry the upper floor.
Any era
Many Westside streets sit in an R1 Variation Zone, which can lower the height or change the encroachment plane on your lot [verify]. Check it first, because it decides how much second floor fits.
1950s–70s
Hillside lots follow the Baseline Hillside Ordinance, with its own floor-area and height rules [verify]. A second story here may need a soils report, deeper footings, and a street-access plan for trucks.
1920s–30s
Craftsman bungalows sit on raised foundations that often need bolting and new footings. In an HPOZ, the upper floor usually has to stay low and set back so the street view doesn’t change [verify].
1980s–90s
These homes already have deeper footings and some shear walls, so an over-garage room or a partial second story often fits. We still check the garage slab and the header over the door.
Yes, always. A second story needs zoning review, structural plan check, and LADBS inspections from footings to final. LA City Planning rules set how big and how tall it can be, and LADBS checks the engineering.
The Baseline Mansionization Ordinance caps floor area on most flat R1 lots and adds an encroachment plane, an angled line the upper walls can’t cross [verify]. Your R1 Variation Zone, if any, can change both.
The Hillside Ordinance adds its own height and floor-area limits on slope lots, and it counts grading too [verify]. We check which rules apply before design, so your plans fit the first time.
LADBS reviews the structural engineer’s calcs for the new footings, shear walls, and hold-downs. Plan check often sends corrections, and we answer them and resubmit for you [confirm].
The lowest second-story bid in Los Angeles often skips the test holes and the hold-downs. We price both on day one, so they don’t show up later as change orders.
CSLB Lic. [#000000]
Measured, not guessed
On our workmanship
No day labor on site
A permitted second story runs in six phases. Plan check and the roof-off stretch set the pace, not the finishes.
Phase 01
We pull your zoning in ZIMAS, survey the lot, and dig test holes. You learn how big the upper floor can be within [2–4] weeks.
Phase 02
You approve the floor plan, the stair spot, and the elevations. The structural engineer then designs footings, shear walls, and hold-downs over [6–10] weeks.
Phase 03
We file with LADBS and answer corrections, which runs about [3–6] months. You use that time to line up a rental and pack.
Phase 04
We pour new footings, then remove the roof in a dry stretch. A temporary roof stays ready until the new floor is sheathed.
Phase 05
Framers build the upper floor, shear walls, and roof, and the house is dry within about [3–5] weeks. The city inspects each step.
Phase 06
HVAC, wiring, drywall, and floors go in over [3–5] months. After final inspection, we walk the house with you and fix your list.
One visit tells you what your zoning allows, what your foundation likely needs, and whether you’ll move out. The consult’s free, and you won’t sign anything.
or send the form and we’ll call you back.
We check the lot, the foundation, and the height limit, then tell you if going up fits. No charge, no obligation.
Form fields: Full name, Email, Phone, Project address, Scope (Second-story addition, Home addition, Room addition, Primary suite addition, Bump-out, Not sure yet), Preferred date, Tell us about your house and lot. Submit button: Book My Free Visit (red #E12228).
We add second floors from Burbank to Torrance, on flat Valley slabs, Westside R1 lots, and hillside streets. Don’t see your neighborhood below? Call and ask.
Tap a question to see the answer. The first one is open to start.
Sometimes as-is, but usually not without work. Most older LA homes need new footings or grade beams under the walls that carry the upper floor. We dig test holes at your existing foundation, and a structural engineer decides what’s needed before design starts.
Usually, yes, for a full second story. The roof comes off, ceilings open, and power and water get cut on and off for weeks. Plan on [4–8] months away. A pop-top or over-garage room often lets you stay, with a shorter move out or none.
Plan on [12–20] months from first visit to final inspection. Design and engineering take [2–4] months, plan check [3–6] months, and construction [6–10] months. Hillside lots and HPOZ review add time. We give you a phased schedule before you sign.
Building out usually costs less per room, because it skips roof removal, the new stair, and most of the shear-wall work. Going up wins when land is tight and your yard matters to you. We price both on the same lot so you compare real numbers.
It depends on your zone. Most flat R1 lots have a height limit and an encroachment plane under the Baseline Mansionization Ordinance, and R1 Variation Zones or the Hillside Ordinance can change them [verify]. We read your lot in ZIMAS before drawing anything.
Stairs usually land where a closet, a hall, or part of a small bedroom sits now. A straight run needs roughly [10–12] feet of length, and it must meet code for rise, run, and headroom [verify]. We sketch two or three spots so you pick what you’ll give up.
It can, so we plan windows with neighbor privacy in mind. Side windows go high or use obscured glass, and bigger windows face the street or your own yard. Stepping the upper floor back also keeps light on the lots next door and eases neighbor concerns.
You need a building permit from LADBS, which covers zoning review, structural plan check, and energy compliance. Hillside lots may need a soils report, and HPOZ homes need design review first [verify]. We prepare the plans, file them, and answer every plan-check correction.
Most second floors get their own system or a separate zone, because heat rises and the upstairs runs warmer. A ducted heat pump in the new attic or a ductless mini-split are common choices. Title 24 sets the insulation and efficiency the plans must show [verify].
Usually, yes. The LA County Assessor typically adds the value of new construction to your existing assessed value, while the original house keeps its base [verify]. We’re builders, not tax advisors. Ask the Assessor how an addition affects your bill.
Cabinets, countertops, islands, and permits under one contract.
Every room, system, and permit on one schedule, with one team.
Detached ADUs, garage conversions, and JADUs, designed and built.
DESIGN SLOTS OPEN FOR [MONTH] AND [MONTH]
A second story gives you more bedrooms without giving up the yard or the neighborhood. Los Angeles Home Remodelers handles the engineering, permits, roof, and stair under one contract. Book your free second-story consult today.
Mon–Sat, 8am–6pm
We check the lot, the foundation, and the height limit, then tell you if going up fits. No charge, no obligation.
Form fields: Full name, Email, Phone, Project address, Scope (Second-story addition, Home addition, Room addition, Primary suite addition, Bump-out, Not sure yet), Preferred date, Tell us about your house and lot. Submit button: Book My Free Visit (red #E12228).